Models, social media, and the ever-changing fashion industry

Consider this: models are to the fashion industry what artists are to the music industry. The ones that consistently put out great work become icons and have the power to change the industry.

• Karlie Kloss’ first runway show in 2007 for Calvin Klein 
• in Vogue US July 2012 shot by Mario Testino 
• as the face of Swarovski in 2016

(Also, the reason I have the audacity to write about models is because I have been learning about models and the fashion industry since I was 15. But I am in no way an expert on this topic. Alright let’s go!)

Generally there are two ways a person can become a model: they are recruited by a model scout, or their family has connections. Either way, they are signed to an agency and start working.

If a model is scouted, they work their way up: walking tons of runway shows, doing photoshoots for e-commerce, and working as fit models (essentially being the human form of a mannequin for a designer to make sure clothing fits correctly). As they prove themselves, they book bigger jobs such as advertising campaigns or editorials in major publications. They may also get to open or close runway shows.

Model Lineisy Montero, who walked 68 shows in fashion month Spring 2016 (souce: harpersbazaar.com)

A model is pretty much solidified in the industry once they sign major contracts with fashion houses or makeup companies. Landing the cover of magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar or Elle is also a big deal.

Lineisy Montero with Greta Varlese and
Ruth Bell for Harper’s Bazaar
UK March 2016 (source: models.com)

So it can take multiple years to climb up the steep wall that is the modeling industry. It isn’t easy to be a model; you have to be versatile in photoshoots, have a good runway walk, and be professional, to name a few things. (It also takes a little bit of luck!)

If a model has connections (essentially nepotism), they can also become successful, but much faster. Everyone has heard of Keeping up with the Kardashians, and one of the stars of this show, Kendall Jenner, decided a few years ago that she wanted to be a model. Before she walked any runway shows, she had already shot with Russell James, a well known fashion photographer. In February 2014, she made her runway debut at Marc Jacobs, and in May 2015 she got a solo cover of Harper’s Bazaar (source: models.com profile).

There is lots of controversy surrounding models like Kendall, such as Cara Delevingne and Gigi Hadid, who come from wealthy and/or famous families and experience almost instantaneous success in the fashion industry. Regardless of whether or not they have worked hard or long enough to deserve their success, they have a lot of power because of social media.

In some ways, social media is revolutionary because we have gained the ability to see the world from many perspectives. But in other ways, we are losing things.

The artistry in fashion photography is not as strong as it used to be. I believe this is because fashion houses and magazines are using people for their photos who aren’t models, but rather celebrities or sometimes internet personalities. To quote a Vogue article by Janelle Okwodu, “There is no direct correlation between being able to take a good selfie and being able to deliver in front of the camera for an actual photographer.” (source article: “Will Social Media Ruin Modeling?” vogue.com) This isn’t to say that someone who was discovered/signed because of their social media following cannot be a good model, but they should have to work their way up like everyone else.

Modeling is just like any other job, in that you need to practice and gain experience. It is the model’s job in a photoshoot to bring life to the clothes. They have to work with the photographer to appeal to the viewer, whether that is modeling clothes for a website or acting in an editorial.

Sasha Pivovarova and Coco Rocha shot by Steven Meisel for Vogue (source: steven-meisel.tumblr.com)

Magdalena Frackowiak shot by Matt Jones for Elle Italia January 2016 (source: fashiongonerogue.com)

by Peter Lindbergh for Vogue UK
(quote and image source: Huffington
Post article “Peter Lindbergh: “There Will Never Be Anything Like
The Era Of The Supermodel Again)

There have been many eras of models, such as the “heroin chic” models of the 1990s, or the supermodels of the 2000s, so this social media model age may pass. Photographer Peter Lindbergh said that “There will never be anything like the era of the supermodel again.”

The upside to this social media era is that we have influence. Who people follow and talk about will gain popularity and exposure. We could choose the models who get the covers of Vogue. I hope that we choose well, because fashion is always looking forward, and the art of modeling shouldn’t be left behind.